The Traveling Hoe

N-P-K Understanding Your Fertilizer

mark — Thu, 06 May 2010 15:24:50 +0000

N-P-K: The elemental shorthand for the three major nutrients in fertilizers. “N” stands for Nitrogen, “P” stands for Phosphate (P2O2) and “K” stands for Potash (K2O). These are the chemical forms of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium that are present in fertilizers. The three numbers on a fertilizer label directly correspond to these nutrients.

Trying to determine what fertilizer to use can be an overwhelming task. Which mix do you need for your plants? The numbers represent the percentage (by weight) of the three major nutrients required for healthy plant growth, always in the same order: nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K). Each of these nutrients affects plant growth differently, and the formulation you select should depend on your specific gardening needs.

The first number is the amount of nitrogen in the bag. So a bag of 16-8-4 has 16 percent total nitrogen. Nitrogen provides plants with the ability to produce more chlorophyll, which in turn allows plants to grow quickly. With each additional nitrogen application, plants will grow taller and develop a darker green color. So if you want a dark green lawn, use a fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen – but then expect to mow more often. If your plant starts to look yellow that is typically a sign of a nitrogen deficiency.

The second number is the amount of phosphorus in the mix. For example, a bag of 16-8-4 would contain 8 percent phosphorus. Phosphorous aids in root development and increases flowering ability and bloom size. The fertilizer industry markets high phosphorus fertilizer as “Bloom Booster.” Purple foliage, on an otherwise green foliage plant, is a sign of a phosphorus deficiency.

The third number is the amount of potassium found in the product. A bag of 16-8-4 has 4 percent potassium in the mix. Potassium has many functions: It guards the plant against diseases and aids in drought protection and cold tolerance. It also serves a role in improving root development and helps in the process of photosynthesis.

If you are unsure of what you need for fertilizer, purchase a soil test kit, they are cheap. Your state Cooperative Extension Services typically sell them or can help answer any questions you may have.

As an organic gardener I use a general 5-5-5. This is slow release feed and that is great on any plant. I will do an organic fertilizer blog shortly. In the meantime, I hope this helps!

Planting for Honey bees

mark — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 23:00:11 +0000

We should really “bee” more mindful when we are planting our flowers. Ask yourself, ” Is this a flower that a honey bee would like?” Sounds a bit silly, but with Colony Collapse Disorder ( see site for more info http://www.nrdc.org/wildlife/animals/bees.asp ) it’s more important then ever to help these ” little guys” out. A very large portion of our agriculture relies on these bees. They pollinate 80% of green growing plants and are vital to plant propagation and pollinate 1/3 of our natural foods.

It terms of plants, it’s important to think of each plant in every season and how it will benefit the honeybee. Bee-friendly flowers provide food ( nectar ) that keeps them alive and pollen that helps fruits and vegetables to grow.

Here are the key things to look at when planting:

NOT using pesticides
Pick flowers of purple, blue, orange and yellow – these colors are most attractive to the honey bee.
Plant plants that will successfully bloom into each season so there is a continual food source.
Plant flowers in patches close together – this helps them use less energy, since already fly so many miles a day.
Flowers to consider that produce both nectar and pollen are: Cosmos, Zinnias, Sunflowers, Dahlias, Hollyhocks, Foxglove, Asters, Geraniums,Daisies and Marigolds.

Happy Planting!

Differences between an Annual, Biennial and a Perennial

admin — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 00:01:34 +0000

A lot of folks aren’t sure of the difference of these types of plants and wonder why some of their plants don’t come back every year. Hopefully this will help clear it up.

Annual – Plants the perform their entire life cycle from seed to flower to seed within a single growing season. All roots, stems and leaves of the plant die annually. Depending the climate, some plants can be perennials like tomatoes, if grown in South America. An example of an annual would be a zinnia.

Biennial – Plants that require 2 years to complete their life cycle. The first year you will have the leaf cluster and the second year you will have a flowering plant with seeds that will form and the plant then dies. An example of a biennial would be a foxglove.

Perennial – Plants that persist for many growing seasons. Generally the top part of the plant dies back in winter and re-grows again the spring or summer. Some plants will keep their leaves. Seeds dropped from a perennial will not flower until the next the next year. An example of a perennial would be a Purple Coneflower.

CLICK HERE to see some great flowers and helpful info in creating your next flower garden.

Building a Salad Table

admin — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 03:34:00 +0000

I first received information about Jon Traunfeld through a Master Gardeners email. His unique approach to building this salad table is ingenious. I will be creating one myself and will post photos of it’s process.

In the mean time check out this link and build your own. It’s so easy! This is great way to keep any rabbits or other critters from having a snack or meal for that matter.

Now is the time to get started on it since lettuce, kale and Swiss Chard are all cool weather crops and will keep going into the fall if you keep reseeding every 2-3 weeks.

There is nothing better then picking your own veggies and bringing them right to your table.

CLICK HERE to watch a video for complete instructions.